How To Get Rid Of Raccoon

Raccoons in the Attic – Guide to Safe Removal

The below guide is written by a naturalist and wildlife removal specialist with many years of experience and hundreds of cases of safe and humane removal of wild animals from homes and buildings. This guide provides the information needed to understand and solve a problem with raccoons living inside the attic of a home.

So! You have a raccoon (or multiple raccoons) in the attic of your home. Most people become aware that an animal is living in their attic when they hear scampering, scratching, or walking noises above the ceiling. A wide variety of animals choose to live in the attics of buildings, from rats and mice, bats and pigeons, squirrels, opossums, and of course raccoons. Most of these animals will oftentimes use other areas of the home as well, from the soffits to the wall voids to the space between floors, so the attic is not the only area you’ll find critters.

How To Get Rid of Raccoons in the Attic: The main principle is that you’ve got to first find out if there’s a litter of baby raccoons (almost always yes), then remove the babies and trap the adult female, and then find out how they raccoon(s) got inside the attic, and after they are all out, seal the entry holes shut. Cleaning up raccoon waste afterward is also a good idea. Below I discuss the details of the process, and it is rarely easy.

Raccoon Noises: It’s often possible to determine the type of animal by the noises alone. Raccoons are the largest of these animals, so the sound is often “heavy” – more like thumping or walking than the light scurrying of a rat. Additionally, raccoons are primarily nocturnal, so the noises occur at night. Most of the noise might happen shortly after dusk, when the animal leaves the attic, and again sometime in the night when it returns. However, the timing of the noise may vary, and sometimes raccoons will stir during the daytime. In addition, raccoons are often vocal, and it’s possible to hear their various growls, chirps, cries, and other noises. If there’s a raccoon family, consisting of a female and a litter of baby raccoons, you will very often hear the very distinct and unique crying and whining of the babies, surefire evidence of raccoon presence.

Raccoon Sightings: Many people with a raccoon in the attic see the animal. It’s a large critter, and it doesn’t exactly hide its presence with swift and silent movements, like a rat. Raccoons are also often active in the daytime, especially ones living in an attic (see below), so it’s very common for people with a raccoon in the attic to actually see the animal, as it climbs up the downspout and onto the roof, or sniffs through the garbage can.

HOW TO IDENTIFY AND GET RID OF RACCOONS

WHAT ARE RACCOONS?

Raccoons (Procyon lotor) have masks over their eyes because they could rob even a bank vault. These resourceful animals are second in persistence and imagination to no other animal (unless it’s a squirrel at a bird feeder).

Raccoons are great climbers, swimmers, jumpers, and runners. Their five-toed paws make them very dexterous, and their agility can allow them to outsmart every human concoction used to deter them. If they aren’t breaking into your garden, they might try to climb into your chimney to use it as a den.

WHAT DO RACCOONS EAT?

Raccoons are nocturnal and omnivorous, meaning they eat anything from grubs to crayfish, as well as all the plants and vegetables that you have in your garden, too. Especially in the fall, they develop a taste for fruits like apples, peaches, and pears, but they also enjoy a variety of vegetables, like sweet corn, potatoes, and peas.

HOW TO IDENTIFY RACCOONS

Raccoons are small mammals 2 to 3 feet in length and weighing about 10 to 30 pounds. Raccoons have distinct black “masks” on their faces, which often characterizes them as bandits. They have fluffy, ringed tails and their bodies are varying shades of gray, with hints of light brown. The forepaws of raccoons resemble tiny human hands with five toes, which makes raccoons very dexterous.

RACCOON DAMAGE

If your lawn has a lot of holes in it, or your mulch pile has a lot of holes, you probably have a nightly visitor. Raccoons will dig up lawns and mulch piles looking for insects to eat. They will also empty bird feeders, so keep an eye on your feeders to see if you have a raccoon problem. Additionally, raccoons are known to raid chicken coops, stealing eggs and even killing chickens.

Crucial steps to get raccoons out of your attic

How do we get raccoons out of the attic?

So, you’ve got guests. They are uninvited, unwelcome, and totally unpleasant. They are raccoons… and, unfortunately, they will not leave by themselves. You’ve got a problem. You need raccoon control.

Your evenings are disrupted by heavy thumping on the ceiling while growling and scratching noises wakes you up at night. The trash can is often tipped over, and your garden is spoiled by raids of your unwelcome guests. These are common annoyances when raccoons are around your property. But they have more surprises in store for you.

Having large critters roaming your house is no doubt a creepy feeling, but what goes on behind the scenes is even more disturbing. Your attic, pipes, ductwork, and insulation are relentlessly destroyed every passing day.

Once you get raccoons in your house, you have just one priority: You need to get those raccoons out of your attic immediately! There is no time to waste unless you want to see big money flying out of your pocket.

The good news is that you can get raccoons out of your attic, prevent them from coming back and find your peace of mind again. The bad news, on the other hand, is that this is not an easy job. It requires time and expertise and is hardly ever a DIY task. Most likely, you will need professional help to take care of the matter, restore and repair your house and prevent them from coming back again.

How To Get Raccoons Out of Your Attic

The first sign of raccoons in the attic is the noise – you probably hear thumping or walking at night. You might also hear vocal noises from the adult or from a nest of baby raccoons. Here’s the deal with raccoons in the attic: there’s almost always a female who has a nest of 3-5 baby raccoons. That’s why she went into the attic in the first place. Raccoons don’t have much use for your attic otherwise

The most common time of year for this is spring, with the peak time from March-May, but I’ve seen baby raccoons at many different times of the year. A raccoon is a large animal, and a strong and messy animal. They need a large entry hole (or holes) to get into your home, and they can rip right through shingles and wood roof. Once in an attic, they can tear up ducts and wires, trample insulation, and leave piles of large droppings behind

They will stay in the attic for maybe 8 months, until the young are big and strong enough to make it on their own, at which time the female will likely mate again and want to use your attic once more. You want to remove raccoons from your attic, but it’s not very easy. You have to get the nest of baby raccoons.

If you don’t, they will scratch and claw and maybe make their way through your ceiling, or they will scream for up to two weeks and then die of starvation and decompose and cause a big odor problem. It’s very inhumane to not get the baby raccoons. Be sure you handle this delicate situation correctly! If you want to hire someone to do this.

Is there a nest of baby raccoons? Yes. Pretty much every time raccoons are in the attic, it’s a single female who has a litter of young. This most commonly happens in the springtime, and the number of young is usually 3-5, and they will stay in the attic for most of the year, until the young are big enough to fend for themselves, at which time they will move out and leave the territory. If you remove just the female raccoon and not the litter of young, you will have a problem

Raccoon Control: How to Get Rid of Raccoons

While the common pests that homeowners usually deal with during the times of the year where it’s starting to get cooler are rats and mice, another common nuisance that should not be overlooked during fall or winter time is wildlife like the Raccoon.

More commonly found in woodsy regions in the Eastern United States, a Raccoon problem can creep up anywhere in the country and if you happen to have one decide to hang around your neighborhood, you may be in for a lot of destruction.

There is a reason Raccoons are considered wildlife, because they can get pretty wild around the home and can give homeowners fits by knocking over trash cans, eating bird feed and scratching and clawing all over the place in search of food. They have been known to damage gardens and tear off shingles and boards in their attempt to get into crawl spaces in homes, finding their way into attics, basements, and garages.

Before considering a treatment approach, you need to make sure that the wild animal lurking on your property is a Raccoon. This will ensure that you are using the correct bait and strategies.

Raccoons are generally 12 inches tall and 24 to 38 inches long.

Raccoons are distinctive; they have gray fur, a ring-striped tail and black markings on their faces which resemble a mask.

They normally weigh between 15 and 25 pounds and are intelligent animals.

They have large droppings similar to dogs.

Raccoons are nocturnal and at times can be particularly aggressive wild animals. Take caution when approaching or handling this animal.

Raccoons are excellent climbers and are able to swim.

Where to Inspect

Raccoons are most likely in your attic looking for food, shelter, or both. If you have any clutter or storage bins in your attic, they are most likely burrowing in these particular spots. Raccoons may also be in basements or garages where trash is stored, as well as areas with clutter or pet food will most likely be spots where raccoons are most active. Search the corners and crevices as well.

Practical Reasons To Put Custom Wheels On Your Truck Tires

Passenger vs. Light Truck Tires

If you drive an SUV or a pickup truck, it’s important to know that you have options when selecting replacement tires.

Understanding the differences between Passenger and Light Truck tires will be critical if you are considering a switch from the original tire type for your vehicle. It’s not necessarily a simple matter of choosing between good and bad. How you use your vehicle will help determine the best choice for you, because each type is constructed for different driving needs.

If you are interested in replacing your Passenger with Light Truck tires or vice versa, read on to get a better idea of the benefits and potential trade-offs for each type.

We’ve also included a tire diameter chart to reference for size comparison and matching between Passenger and Light Truck tires.

Passenger vs. Light Truck tires: What’s the difference?

Passenger tire sizes were originally designed for cars and station wagons, but as the automobile market has grown to include more passenger carrying — instead of cargo carrying — vans, pickup trucks and SUVs, Passenger tires have become more commonplace. Most light trucks being produced today are equipped with Passenger tires because they rarely go off road, carry heavy loads or tow a trailer. Passenger tires are lighter weight, with lower rolling resistance and a less aggressive tread design. Those features add up to improved ride comfort, less road noise and better fuel economy than a typical Light Truck tire — although they shouldn’t be considered adequate for off-road driving. Additionally, Passenger tires typically have better traction on wet and dry pavement.

Light Truck tires are built specifically for light trucks and can handle heavier loads under more adverse conditions. They usually have a deeper tread and thicker rubber in the sidewall and under the tread, offering more protection than their Passenger counterparts. Plus, they are constructed with heavier plies and often have an extra steel belt. Along with heavy load uses, some Light Truck tires are built for off-roading to handle gravel, dirt or other debris that can more easily damage Passenger tires.

Generally, if your truck or SUV’s original tires were Light Truck tires, you should replace them with Light Truck tires following the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations. If you’re going to drive only on paved roads and not haul any heavy loads, you might be able to opt for a Passenger tire instead but should make sure to get a Passenger tire that has a 10% increase in load-carrying capacity in order to provide an acceptable margin of safety. You must also adjust your air pressure accordingly.

For example, if your truck or SUV weighs 4,500 pounds, each tire should be capable of carrying a minimum of 1,125 pounds. If a Passenger size is chosen to replace a Light Truck tire, the tires should be able to carry at least 1,238 pounds.

If your SUV, van or truck came with Passenger tires but you frequently haul heavy loads or pull heavy trailers, you should consider replacing your Passenger tires with Light Truck tires. The trade-off is that Light Truck tires offer a rough ride; their thicker, stiffer sidewalls aren’t very flexible and create a bumpier, noisier, less comfortable drive than Passenger tires. This stiffer tire, however, results in less sway and more predictable handling, which provides more confidence in how the vehicle drives when hauling or carrying heavy loads.

Ultimately, your tire’s construction must be able to handle the vehicle’s weight and intended use. It can create a dangerous situation if the tire you choose isn’t designed to handle the dynamics of your vehicle.

So, whether you’re taxiing your family around town or hauling heavy cargo, it’s important to equip your vehicle with the appropriate set of tires. It is always best to stay with the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended load range, even if you don’t plan to carry a lot of weight.

Should I use P-metric or LT-metric tires?

Many lightweight pickups, vans, and SUVs come from the factory with P-metric tires, which means they are designed for paved roadways and standard load sizes. These tires won’t do much if you plan on doing heavy-duty work with your light-duty truck. But before you switch your P-metric tires to LT-metric tires instead, check out how they stack up.

While LT-metric tires do well off-road, they aren’t suited for standard driving conditions. Their rolling resistance and heavy-duty construction can significantly increase fuel costs. And if you do a lot of highway driving, the resulting tread wear on your heavy-duty tires could cost you heavy-duty money. Plus, you could notice that your ride becomes noisier or rougher after replacing your P-metric tires with light truck tires.

On the other hand, if you haul heavy loads or drive on a lot of off-road terrains, putting P-metric tires on your light truck can be downright dangerous! Since these tires aren’t equipped to handle rough off-road conditions, you could damage the tire and dramatically shorten its lifespan. Additionally, the lack of support you get from the tire could allow those rough conditions to wreak havoc on your suspension!

Vehicle tires

Your average passenger car (P) or light truck (LT) tire is a radial design. These tires are designed for different purposes than trailer tires. Depending on the classification that could be for load bearing capacity, long distance driving, or a combination of both.

There are three major factors in mind during their construction:

  • Acceleration: When speeding up, a car tire must both deliver traction and endure the stresses caused by the acceleration.
  • Braking: When braking, the car tire must endure the stresses incurred and stop the vehicle.
  • Turning: When a vehicle tire makes a turn, the tread and overall construction of the tire deforms to provide better grip.

These three factors are of the utmost importance when designing a car tire. The materials and construction respond to the vehicle’s needs. They’re even designed to respond to weather conditions based on these needs.

These tires can have tread life capacities upwards of 80,000 miles with proper maintenance. It can be tempting to toss them on a trailer.

How to Remove a Truck Suspension Lift Kit

Removing a suspension lift kit will require the truck to be realigned after the removal of the lift. The wheels and tires–or just the tires, if the lift was not over 2 inches–must be replaced. This must be considered first, because when lifting a truck the normal tires and wheels can be used to go to a shop for an upgrade in size. When lowering the truck, the tires and wheels will not fit under the truck. The truck may have to sit on the jack stands until the tire situation is corrected.

Step 1

Raise the truck on all four corners, and support it on jack stands. Support the rear axle on either side, then jack up the axle sufficiently to relieve weight on the spring. Using the 1/2-inch air gun and socket, remove the nuts from the U bolts holding the axle to the spring.

Step 2

Remove the bottom plate and the lifting block between the spring and axle. Lower the axle onto the spring and replace the U bolts with new, shorter bolts. Install the lower axle support plate with the U bolts inserted through the holes in the plate, and install the nuts and tighten. Do the other side the same way.

Step 3

Remove both front wheels. Remove the front caliper and hang it up out of the way with a coat hanger so that it does not hang by its hose. Disconnect the ABS wire connector if so equipped. Place the floor jack under the lower control arm and lift it so it barely touches the control arm. Remove the sway bar link.

Step 4

Using the wire cutter, remove the cotter pin from the bottom ball joint. Loosen the ball joint nut but leave it on with five threads. Use the ball joint separator and separate the ball joint. Remove the nut on the top of the shock and remove the shock extender.

Step 5

Lift the lower control arm with the floor jack just enough to take the tension off the ball joint nut. Remove the nut. Slowly lower the control arm and remove the coil spring. Install the new coil spring by inserting it up into its frame housing and grab the bottom of the spring and force it into the receiver in the lower control arm, as far as possible. Raise the control arm slightly and force the spring in further until it is all the way in the receiver, or use the pry bar to help it into the pocket. Once in, raise the lower control arm slowly and insert the ball joint into the bottom receiver of the spindle. Install the nut on the ball joint and tighten the nut.

Install the cotter pin in the ball joint above the nut. Install the shock to its original bracket. Install the sway bar link and tighten the nut. Install the caliper and attach the ABS connector. Do the opposite side in the same manner. Lower the floor jack. Put the new tires and wheels on. If you do not need to buy new tires and wheels, put the old ones back on.

Can i use my trailer tires on my car?

If you didn’t get a spare with your car when you bought it, you may be tempted to get a rim and toss a trailer tire on it. If you’re not on it long, what’s the worst that could happen?

Well, a car accident that totals your car is bad.

Using a trailer tire on a vehicle focuses stress on areas where trailer tires are weakest. Vehicle tires keep traction and grip in mind during their construction, while trailer tires do not. This increases the risk significantly, especially at highway speeds or in poor weather.

We don’t recommend using a trailer tire on your vehicle.

Innovative Ideas For Bathroom Remodeling

Ultimate Guide to Bathroom Remodeling

Read this before you proceed with the repairing and renovation works in one of the rooms where you start your day – your bathroom. We’ve collected the info about contractors, materials, tools and other stuff to help you out with the checklist and calculations.

It makes no difference what you’re willing to get: a cheap bathroom remodeling from scratch or an elegant looking bathroom that will not simply cost you a fortune, but add value to the place you live in. The following guide is stuffed with tips and information on how to choose materials, hire professionals and make your dream come true. Additionally, you’ll get hints on how to make the repairing works on your own.

Checklist

Analyze the pros and cons of your bathroom in its current state and deal with your wishes.

Look through the bathroom remodeling images or visit your local showrooms to get an idea of the space design in your renovated bathroom.

Analyze your financial position – study our bathroom remodeling tips and ideas and set your budget not to deal with unpredictable and unwanted loans.

Don’t try to rely only on yourself – trust the professionals. We have tips on how to pick out the best ones that will meet your needs and expectations.

Make it official – trustworthy bathroom remodeling companies will bear the responsibility for their work.

Get ready to survive – it won’t be easy. We’ll help you to beat the stress.

Bathroom Remodeling Materials and Tools

Storage spaces, cabinets, counters, countertops, vanities, and shelves;

Sinks;

Faucets;

Shower and bathtub materials;

Toilets;

Ventilation;

Lighting;

Walls & Flooring;

Doors & Windows.

Study the following bathroom remodel questionnaire before you start…

What are the pros of your bathroom right now?

What are you willing to alter?

How do you imagine your dream bathroom?

What colors would you like?

How many people are going to use the bathroom on a regular basis?

How many of them will use the bathroom at the same time?

What space should be private and what can be shared between several people at once?

Will you have visitors in your new bathroom?

What is the age and health condition of people that will use the bathroom?

Do you need a bathroom remodeling for handicap accessibility?

Are you willing to separate the shower and bath space?

Will a shower for one person be enough?

Do you want to separate the water closet from the bathroom area or not?

Planning Guide: Bathrooms

Getting Started

When it comes to the bathroom, there’s a lot going on in a relatively small space. Focus on style and function.

Planning Your Remodel

Contemporary Design

Details in a Zen Retreat

Small Midcentury Bath

Factors to Consider

Traditional Style Bathroom Style

Rustic Master Bath

Purpose + Goals

Think about your reasons for remodeling, assess your bathroom needs and design a space that will fulfill your goals.

Which Bathroom?

Full Bathroom

Half-Bath or Powder Room

Master Bathroom

Three-Quarter Bathroom

Kid-Friendly Bathrooms

Assessing Costs

Get tips for creating and managing your remodeling budget. Break down renovation costs and discover budget-friendly options.

Creating a Budget

Where to Splurge and Save

Cheap vs. Steep

Expenses to Expect

Remodeling for Resale

Design + Space Planning

Consider what the bathroom offers you now (plumbing fixtures, surfaces, finishes, lighting) and decide what changes to make.

Evaluate the Existing Space

A Bathroom Designed for All

Layout Considerations

Universal Design Principles

Bath Planning Guide

Creating a Budget

According to the National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA), a bathroom redesign budget is typically dictated by size, which averages $125 a square foot. If you decide to sell your home, an updated bathroom is an attractive selling point, and the expected return on your investment is more than 60% on a major remodel.

Bathroom Refresh

A bathroom refresh can typically range between $200 and $5,000. Projects that might be included in a refresh are:

Paint

Vanity update

New countertop or sink

Bathtub refinish

New light fixtures

New window treatments

Hardware and fixture upgrades

Minor Remodel

A small remodel can typically range between $5,000 and $15,000. Projects that might be included in a redesign are:

New faucets, sink, shower and toilet

New bathtub/shower or whirlpool

Moving fixtures

New supply lines, drain pipes, electrical

New or additional cabinets/vanity

Building dividing walls

Replacing flooring

Major Remodel

A major remodel typically exceeds $15,000. Projects that might be included in a large renovation are:

New cabinet and fixture layout

Adding or removing doorways

Moving and/or expanding a bath

Redoing plumbing and electrical

Upgrading materials, surfaces, finishes

Adding skylights and/or windows

Bathroom Planning Guide: Inspiration and Ideas

This elegant white bathroom features matching vanities, mirrors and wall sconces. The stone vanity countertops play off the white marble tile flooring and mosaic tile backsplash, while brushed nickel fixtures provide a uniform look

A dark vanity, accessories and bronze finishes make this fresh design a study of contrasts. A glazed subway tile zigzag pattern accent wall is surrounded by moulding to frame it out. A black and white penny tile floor offers depth and breaks up some of the gray.

This beautiful two-toned clawfoot freestanding tub is just as much of a statement piece as the ceramic tile flooring. The black vanities feature a marble countertop and brass finishes that add just enough color to this black and white master bathroom.

Bold patterned wallpaper is perfect for a powder room. The yellow accents add the right amount of color pop to complement the white vanity and chrome fixtures. Avoid wallpaper in a master or guest bathroom, the moisture from showers or baths may cause it to peel.

This modern farmhouse bathroom features a rustic wood-look tile floor, an open wooden vanity with double sinks and bronze fixtures. The single panel shower door and mixture of dark and brass finishes add a modern industrial touch.

Bathroom Planning Guide: Layout and Design

Measuring Your Space

Key

1 – Toilet – Allow at least 16 inches from the center of the toilet to a wall or fixture on either side. Toilets seats are usually 14 to 15 inches from the floor, but some toilet designs sit at chair height, 16 to 19 inches from the floor. Toilet compartments should be at least 36 inches wide by 66 inches deep. They can have a pocket door, a swing out door or no door. Also, make sure to measure the rough-in space, which is the distance from the wall to the center of the toilet drain in the floor. The standard rough-in is 12 inches, but you may encounter 10 inch and 14 inch rough-ins in older homes.

2 – Doorways – Need to be at least 32 inches wide.

3 – Mirror – Allow 8 inches or more between the top of the sink or countertop and the bottom of a medicine cabinet or mirror. Take the user’s height into consideration.

4 – Vanities – Standard height is 30 to 32 inches tall. In bathrooms with two vanities, either can be raised or lowered depending on the user’s height.

5 – Sinks – There should be at least 15 inches from the sink center to a sidewall. If there are two sinks in a vanity, there should be 36 inches center line to center line between them. Allow at least 8 inches between the edge of a sink and the end of the counter.

6 – Walkways – Need to be at least 36 inches wide.

7 – Towel Bars – Provide at least 36 inches of towel bar space per user. Mount them 36 to 48 inches above the floor.

8 – Shower – Minimum interior dimensions are 34 by 34 inches but 36 by 36 inches is better. Swinging shower doors must open into the bathroom, away from the shower.

9 – Tub/Shower Controls – In a tub/shower combo, mount the faucet 30 to 33 inches above the bathroom floor. Set controls at 38 to 48 inches high for ease of use while standing. Showerheads should be 69 to 72 inches from the floor. Controls should be accessible from both inside and outside of the shower

Design Ideas for a 3/4 Bathroom

A 3/4 bath offers a sink, a toilet and a shower (but not a tub). It’s ideal for overnight guests, who can get ready at night or in the morning without sharing a family or master bath. It also works well as a family’s second bath or for an older child or live-in relative desiring privacy. Surfaces and fixtures are basic.

Key

1 – A single overhead fixture lights the vanity area.

2 – The sink is mounted in a vanity cabinet.

3 – The shower is a curtained enclosure.

4 – The toilet tucks into a corner

By leaving the layout unchanged—no expensive moves for fixtures and pipes—design tweaks create the feel of more space while minimizing costs. A pedestal sink opens up the vanity area, a glass door lightens the look of the shower, and storage features hug the walls, keeping the bath streamlined.

Key

1 – Add a pair of sconces beside the vanity.

2 – Trade the vanity cabinet for a space-saving pedestal sink.

3 – Carve out more storage with a recessed medicine cabinet.

4 – Add another towel bar where the old vanity cabinet ended.

5 – Upgrade the flooring to a stone or stone-look surface using larger tiles.

6 – Swap out the shower curtain for a glass door.

7 – Stretch storage with a cabinet above the toilet.

8 – Add space-efficient hooks for robes and towels.

With a few choice upgrades, even a basic hardworking three-quarter bath can take on the look and feel of a luxurious bath retreat. Put a little extra style in the vanity area, make the shower more spa-like and boost storage throughout. Dimmable lighting and heated flooring create a little drama and a lot of comfort.

Key

1 – Splurge on an attractive light fixture above the sink.

2 – Upgrade a basic vanity top to a stone or stone-look surface.

3 – Use organizers to improve vanity storage.

4 – Add storage above the sink with a recessed, mirrored medicine cabinet spanning the width of the vanity.

5 – Upgrade the sink and faucet.

6 – Choose beautiful stone or ceramic-tile flooring.

7 – Install radiant heat under the floor tiles to keep feet warm.

8 – Pamper yourself with a towel warmer.

9 – Step up from a shower curtain to a glass door.

10 – Hang a small cabinet above the toilet for storage.

11 – Install hooks for robes and towels.

12 – Use dimmer switches for different lighting effects.

Hands-Free Kitchen Faucet

Smart faucet brings voice commands to the kitchen sink

Design and installation

Sensate faucet with voice control ranges from $875 to $1,100 depending on finish. While that is expensive, it’s important to note that Kohler’s standard version of this faucet without any voice control also falls within that price range, so adding smarts doesn’t really cost you more.

sent me the oil-rubbed bronze finish to review, but the Sensate is also available in polished chrome, vibrant stainless and matte black. The single-hole design takes up little space on your countertop and the pull-down nozzle helps the faucet reach every corner of your sink. You can control the faucet with motion by waving your hand beneath the arch to turn it on or off. You can also use the physical handle or a voice assistant.

Installation is similar to most regular kitchen faucets, except for required electrical power. You’ll need a dedicated outlet or a switch that can be on all the time in order to power the motion sensing and smart components. If there isn’t wiring readily available near your sink already, you’ll need to factor that into your budget and installation plan. I suspect most people will want to call a plumber to help install it.

Voice control

Once your faucet is installed, you’ll need to download the Kohler Konnect app and create an account if you don’t have one already. Instructions differ for each operating system, but the app and corresponding smarts work with both iOS and Android devices. Follow the directions that come in the box to link that account with your voice assistant of choice, and you’re ready to go.

When you’re ready to use voice commands, you’ll need to physically pull the handle into the on position, then stop the water flow with your hand in order for the faucet to work with voice commands. That makes sense from a power standpoint — it’s like how you need to leave your light switch in the on position to control smart bulbs. As with smart lighting, it might be difficult to keep the faucet configured properly in a home where multiple people use the sink every day. That has the potential to take away from the convenience of voice commands.

Kitchen faucets

Kitchen faucets not only complete the look of your sink, but they’re one of the most commonly used fixtures in the home. In order to strike a balance between functionality and style, be sure to first determine your needs. A single-handle faucet with a pull-out sprayer is great for saving space and rinsing out the sink; a high-arc spout finished in bronze will increase water range in rustic style. When shopping for the right kitchen faucet

What type of mount should I choose?

Kitchen sinks and countertops are generally equipped with one to five holes to accommodate faucets in various configurations, including additional side accessories like sprayers or soap dispensers. Different types of units require different amounts of holes: single-handle units require one while double-handle units require three (one for the spout, and two for the handles).

Typically, kitchen faucets can be mounted in one of three ways:

Deckplate: These faucets contain the spout and handles in one mounting plate, and can cover up to three holes in your sink.

Non-deckplate: All faucet components mount individually on the sink or countertop with the non-deckplate option, making this option more customizable.

Wall-mount: If you have an apron or undermount sink with no pre-drilled faucet holes, wall-mounted faucets are a great solution.

Note: If you’re replacing a faucet in an existing sink, you’ll need to choose one that’s compatible with the number and spacing of the existing holes (remember, you can conceal unused holes with sink hole covers if need be). However, if you’re working with a brand new sink, you can customize it to fit your needs

What type of handle is best?

This is largely dependent on the number of holes you’re working with, which mounting option you’ve chosen and what you prefer aesthetically. A single-handle faucet requires one or two holes and is often offered with a mounting plate to cover additional holes, while a double-handle faucet has separate handles for hot and cold water and require three holes

TOUCHLESS & HANDS-FREE FAUCETS

Touch faucets’ most innovative feature is something you can’t even see – but after just one touch you’ll be smitten. They offer you the ability to control the flow of water in your kitchen with nothing more than a touch from your wrist, forearm or the back of your hand, ideal for all busy cooks and their helpers.

Your faucet remains clean and germ free. No matter how many times you use it. Touch faucets react to the slightest touch, letting you turn them on and off without leaving a mark.  There is no need to use the lever – just tap the faucet with your wrist or forearm for perfect control every time.

You can turn on Touchless FootControl faucets with a simple tap of your toe on the base unit leaving your hands free and your faucet spotless. This new level of kitchen convenience makes it easier than ever to fill heavy pots and clean the dishes or your hands while also leaving the tap sparkling and germ-free. 

THE ULTIMATE CLEAN

Washing hands using a conventional faucet can leave your faucet dirty potentially leaving behind germs, bacteria, and viruses. Automatic faucets controlled by a sensor are therefore a good alternative for making hand washing more hygienic, especially in big, busy households. Since the faucet is controlled using an infrared sensor, you don’t have to touch it at all reducing chances of spreading germs.

automatic taps are not only hygienic, but also extremely convenient. You can easily preselect the water temperature and as the faucet is activated, the water comes out at the desired temperature every time. Also, with the use of highly precise sensors, hand movements are reliably detected. The infrared sensor also detects when you move your hands away from the faucet automatically stopping the flow of water.

Kitchen Faucets

Find The Right Faucet For Your Kitchen

Finding the right faucet makes cooking and cleaning much easier, and enhances the look of any décor. We offer a wide range of options to suit your every need; from industrially inspired bridge faucets to streamlined single handle pull outs and pull downs, to our most popular commercial style faucets enhanced with pull down functionality.

Choosing The Right Fit

To accommodate any size of kitchen, we offer a variety of height-optimized faucets designed to fit underneath any cabinet for easy installation anywhere, with high arc spouts that swivel out of the way when you need more room in the sink for large items or stacks of dishes. No more struggling to fill or clean oversized pots or tall containers!

A Faucet For Every Sink

We also have options for any room in the house where you might need a sink, including sleek single handle bar faucets that you can pair with a prep bowl to free up space in the main basin, and impressively tall models that you can team with a laundry or utility sink for maximum impact.

Magnetic Docking: A magnetic lock connects the pull down sprayhead securely to the spout and locks it in place, with no drooping over time.

Dual Function: An easy to reach button located on the sprayhead allows you to switch between spray and stream to handle any task.

Reach™ Technology: Our pull down models hit all the right spots, allowing you to reach every hard to get place inside and outside of the sink with a flexible hose and swiveling sprayhead connector.

QuickDock Installation: Master the art of installation in 5 minutes flat with faucets featuring a drop-in QuickDock base that installs from above the counter – no need to go underneath the sink!

Best Kitchen Faucets For Long-Lasting Use

The average American only spent 37 minutes daily in their kitchen preparing food and cleaning up. Since then, in a nationwide trend to eat out less and create healthy habits, one of the fastest growing industries is kitchen appliances.

When it comes to kitchen faucets, gone are the days of a simple on/off – today’s kitchen faucets have many features that can completely customize your kitchen experience. Read our thorough review here for choosing the best faucets on the market today.

Both pull down and pull out kitchen faucet styles have attached sprayers that can be manipulated per their namesakes. Pull down faucets are taller and can be pulled straight down, a move that is both ergonomically correct and great for filling large pots or pitchers.

Pull out faucets usually have a lower profile and generally, offer longer hoses – a feature that some people prefer to fill pots that are sitting on the counter.

Touchless Vs. Touch

Both touchless and touch faucets were developed to eliminate the transfer of germs and bacteria from your hands to the faucet handles. A motion sensor usually operates touchless kitchen faucets. They are becoming increasingly popular in public restrooms. Place your hands in front of the sensor, and the water will begin.

Questions To Ask A Roof Inspection Professional

How do you repair a damaged roof?

Is your roof damaged? You may not think so, but how can you be sure?

Have you checked your roof for signs of damage? Do you even know how to check or what signs you’re looking for? Roof damage is serious and we don’t want anyone to get hurt because of it. Besides, if you don’t know how to check your roof, you’ve probably not previously known what you need to look for.

follow this guide to check for signs of roof damage.

1. Sunlight Coming Through

Holes in your roof that are big enough to let the sunshine in are a dead giveaway that the roof is damaged. This sign is typically the most obvious. But it’s sometimes overlooked, especially in attics and other rooms that don’t get used often.

Check for holes that let in sunlight room by room. Turn off all the lights, close the blinds and the door. Basically, make the room as dark inside as you can.

Then, look to the sky. If you can see the sky or even small sparkles of light, you’ve got holes in your roof.

2. Leaks When It Rains

Another obvious sign is that your roof leaks when it rains. Only, it’s not always that obvious.

If you are aware of leaks in your roof, don’t hesitate to get it repaired. Even a small leak lets moisture in between the cracks, which spreads as far as it can into your roofing material. Then, this moisture expands and contracts with temperature changes, widening the opening in your roof.

This deterioration spreads quickly, weakening the integrity of your roof. The longer you wait, the more dangerous it becomes and the more expensive it is to fix.

If you aren’t aware of any leaks, check for dripping next time it rains. Don’t overlook the attic, as many homeowners do.

3. Moisture Where It Shouldn’t Be

As we said before, leaks aren’t always obvious. Sometimes they’re just a teeny, tiny dribble that gets trapped in your insulation or absorbs into the boxes stored in your attic. This doesn’t make them any less of a problem.

Such leaks will obviously be devastating to the stored items you have soaking in them. And wherever this moisture ends up, it becomes ideal breeding grounds for mold and mildew. This can rot the very wood your house is made of.

So, during and after a rainstorm, check for puddles or other wet spots where moisture has collected. And regularly check your house for mold or mildew.

Also, paint that is blistering/peeling is another sign of excess moisture. If you see any of these signs, call a professional roofer to come to check them out.

4. Stains and Discoloring

When leaks have been going on for a really long time, you can see it on the ceiling and walls. As moisture drips further and further down into your house, it brings dirt and dust with it. When this dirty water soaks all the way through to the surface or your ceiling and walls, it discolors the paint.

These discolorations are grey, brown, or yellowish in color. On the ceiling, it appears as a circular ring. On the walls, it may look like streaks dripping down.

As we said, these stains indicate that the leaks have reached all the way into your home. They’re signs of very advanced water damage and need to be fixed right away.

5. Sagging

Another sign of long-time water damage is a sagging ceiling. This means that water has pooled in that same spot above your head so many times that the ceiling is warping under the weight of it.

It’s exceedingly important that you have a professional roofer look at it right away. Again, when you’re checking for sagging, don’t forget the attic.

6. Energy Bills Increasing

Water and light aren’t the only things that leak through the holes in your roof. Air and heat can leak through as well. When there’s a temperature leak, your heating and cooling system has to run more frequently to make up for the breach.

If you notice your energy bill keeps costing you more each month, air leaking through your roof may be to blame. Of course, there are many other factors that can cause this. But it’s best to check your roof just in case.

Check for sunlight streaming through, as instructed above. And check the exterior, as we describe in the next point.

How to Repair a Damaged Roof

  • Repair Sheathing

After cleaning the debris and reframing the roof, lay down a base (sheathing). Eight-foot, 1/2-inch-thick plywood is standard sheathing material. Measure the opening of the section of roof to be shingled, cut the plywood to size and nail to roof rafters. Stagger the sheathing in a brick pattern for extra strength. Do not place an entire 8-foot section of plywood onto roof. Such a long piece is structurally unstable in the middle. Continue to install in brick pattern, staggering the plywood seams until the open area is covered.

  • Lay Felt Paper

Start by stapling the 6-inch starter strip at the bottom section of roof leaving a 1-inch overhang on the eave to ensure drainage into the gutters. Going from bottom up, lay and nail the remaining felt layers with a 2-inch overlap. Be sure to nail the tar strip on each felt layer to ensure maximum hold.

  • Install Shingles

Lay the first row of shingles starting at a bottom corner of the roof. Place a base row of shingles following the chalk lines on the felt and move upward in a pyramid shape. Use six nails per shingle to ensure maximum hold, and be sure to always nail on the tar strip. Continue working your way across and up the roof, following your initial pyramid base. If repairing a section of damaged roof, be sure you layer the existing shingles on top of the new. This will ensure a uniform and seamless look.

Swap Shingles

If part of a shingle is missing, you’ll have to replace the whole thing. First see if you have any leftover shingles from the last time the roof was worked on (with any luck, the builder or the roofer who handled the job left some behind). If not, you’ll have to buy a bundle at a home center or lumberyard ($15 to $20 per square—100 sq. ft.—of standard three-tab shingles). If you can’t find a perfect match, choose the closest one.

Replacing a damaged shingle requires a hammer, a flat pry bar, a utility knife and a handful of 11/4-in. roofing nails. Each shingle is initially secured with four nails; when the next shingle course above is installed, however, its nails also pass through the top edge of the shingles in the course below.

Begin removing the first row of nails by sliding the pry bar under the shingle immediately above the damaged one and gently lifting it to free it from the sealer strip. You’ll see the first row of nails beneath.

Slip the pry bar under the damaged shingle and pry upward. Once the nail pops up about 1/4 in., remove the pry bar, press the shingle down and pull out the nail. Repeat this procedure for the remaining three nails. Then push the pry bar under the shingle directly above the damaged one and remove the second row of nails the same way. After yanking all eight nails, pull out the damaged shingle.

If the existing shingles are brittle, you may not be able to pry out the second row of nails without cracking a shingle. In that case, tear out the damaged shingle and cut V-notches in the replacement to fit around the four nails. Slide the new shingle up into place and secure it with four nails.

Sealing Leaky Joints

Inspect areas where surfaces join, such as at a chimney or valley.

  • Look for gaps in caulk, sealant, or aluminum flashing where any objects intersect with or emerge from the roof. These are some of the most common sources of roof leaks, and smaller gaps are easy to repair.
  • Small gaps can be treated with caulk or roof sealant, but larger cracks or tears require patching or new flashing.

Apply roof sealant or cement to gaps less than 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) wide.

  • Scrape away old sealant, wipe away debris, and dry the area thoroughly before applying a new compound. Use a thin, flexible putty knife to apply roof cement to small cracks in the sealant around chimneys, pipes, or other joined surfaces. For small gaps at the metal or rubber collar of an exposed pipe or vent, apply a bead of waterproof silicone-based caulk with a caulking gun.
  • Gaps larger than 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) will require a more substantial fix instead of a simple sealant.[24]

Repair rusted or loose flashing at a joint.

  • Flashing is typically made of steel or aluminum, and it seals joints around chimneys, valleys, siding, and walls that intersect the roof. If you find loose flashing, apply a bead of roof cement beneath it, then press it back into place.
  • If a small area of flashing is rusted, slide a new piece of galvanized steel flashing beneath the failing area, then seal it with roofing cement.
  • If you’re any shingles adjacent to flashing are loose, avoid nailing the shingles on the side that makes contact with the flashing. Instead, bond the shingles to the flashing using roof cement to avoid puncturing the flashing.

Replace large areas of failing flashing, if necessary.

  • Pry off stretches of unsound flashing and old roof cement with a chisel or pry bar. Measure your chimney, vent, or other joined area, and use a pair of straight cutting tin snips to cut a section of pre-bent base flashing to fit the joint. Your flashing should overlap the joint by about 4 in (10 cm) on each side.
  • Apply strips of ice-and-water barrier to the joint before installing the flashing. For a chimney or other object protruding from the roof, apply strips 4 in (10 cm) up the object’s height.
  • Wrap the flashing around the joint and seal it with roofing cement or caulk. If there are nail holes on the flashing’s edge, drive galvanized roofing nails into them.
  • If you have a shingled roof, you might have needed to remove shingles in order to access the old flashing. Replace them, if necessary, and secure them to the flashing with roofing cement.
  • Properly replacing all of the flashing around a chimney is complex and may require custom-made materials. If necessary, consult a professional

Repair Cracked Shingles

If a shingle is simply cracked or torn, you don’t have to replace it—just repair it. Start by applying a thick bead of roofing sealant under the crack. Press the shingle down and apply a second bead of sealant on top of the crack. Then spread the sealant with a putty knife.

The best part of this fix is that no one has to know you made it. It’s easy to camouflage: Check the gutter for an accumulation of colored granules that have washed down the roof from the shingles. Then gather some into a small cup and sprinkle them over the sealant to mask the repair.

Commercial Painting Franchises

Professional & Medical

When it comes to professional offices and medical facilities, cleanliness and comfort are considered essential. This is particularly true of doctor’s offices and hospitals. To get the job done right means as much minor disruption as possible. It takes true professionals who are not only skilled in their craft, but also trained to be cognizant of the customer’s needs. It takes a special skill set to work in occupied spaces and get it right, fast and efficiently.

professional team is trained in getting in and out on schedule and on budget while leaving nothing but the paint on the walls.

been painting for decades and we win projects and become a trusted partner to the businesses work with because of a few simple things:

communicate well and respond to your special needs and schedule

take professionalism, quality and speed very seriously

are DEDICATED to containing costs and providing competitive bids

leave nothing behind but the paint on the walls

show up on time

move everything for you and do all the prep (patching)

paint and then put everything back, we are a painting service rather than just “painters”

What types of projects can you handle?

can handle anything from a single office to multi-floor tenant buildings like emergency rooms, operating rooms, pharmacies, occupied offices of all kinds, data centers and everything in between. paint all kinds of walls, door frames, windows, ceilings, floors and whatever else you need.

What’s the process?

Initial meeting

Color and material options consultation

Competitive quote

Quote acceptance

Schedule it

Project happens

COMMERCIAL INTERIOR PAINTING

BEST INTERIOR COMMERCIAL PAINTING COMPANY

You need a professional painting company with experience in successfully completing interior commercial painting jobs If your project is a retouch or repaint in a space that is full of furnishings and/or equipment, you can be sure that the team

Commercial Painting

You deserve to know the cost of your interior commercial painting project with complete confidence. Some painting companies offer only a very rough estimate, leaving the total cost of supplies and the true cost of labor a mystery.

Prep Work

One of the most important, but often overlooked, aspects of a commercial painting project is the prep work that is done before paint is applied. professional painters pay close attention to power washing, scraping, and patching work that will ensure a great outcome.

Clean Up

When you give Painting the opportunity to paint the interior of your commercial property you can count on to be clean and professional. conduct a full clean-up quickly after finishing the project.

Essential Tools for Painting a Room

Seeing all of these amazing spaces in our Room for Color contest, you may be inspired to add some color to your own walls. To help you get started, we’ve created a shoppers guide with all the essentials. Choosing the paint color is up to you.

TAPE

We’re big fans of the standard ScotchBlue painter’s tape for taping off trim and ceilings. For detailed work, like creating stripes or working around glass, FrogTape creates a tighter seal around the edges.

DROP CLOTH

Having a drop cloth will mean less clean up later. Use it to protect floors and furniture from drips of paint. Really, no matter how careful you are, there will be drips. Scotch Plastic Drop Cloth is a great temporary option – just crumple it up and dump it in the garbage when finished. If you think you’ll be painting again the future, consider investing in Blue Hawk Canvas Drop Cloth. You can always use it to make a slipcover or curtains later. Another option is to buy a Kraft Paper Roll to protect your floors.

PAINT TRAY

One annoying thing about most paint trays is that you have to refill them repeatedly throughout the job. The clever thing abuot the Bercom Handy Paint Tray is that it fits an entire gallon of paint. Plus, it includes a magnetic brush holder and handle.

PAINT ROLLER & REFILLS

The trusty paint roller can make quick work of covering a large wall. Invest in a roller, like the Wooster 9 in. Sherlock Roller Frame, and you’ll have it forever. You’ll only need to buy roller refills, like the Purdy White Dove Dralon Roller Covers, for future paint jobs. For tight corners and smaller spaces, the Mini-Roller Tray Set is great for maneuverability.

disadvantages of using a commercial painting business

There are a number of things which you should be aware of when deciding to employ a commercial painting company. The most significant thing to consider is how much experience your company has. In case your company’s previous jobs are doing great, then they should be able to provide you with the project in a cost which you can easily manage.

A disadvantage of hiring someone to paint your walls is the fact that it is going to affect your property value. Even if your paint was well done, it may not seem as good after being painted over. If the paint was of a poor quality or too thin, it might wind up peeling off of the wall very easily. This may ruin the look of your walls and also will make them look dated in a short period of time.

It requires one individual’s knowledge and expertise to apply paint. Additionally, their tools and equipment need to be maintained correctly and cleaned on a regular basis. There are times when these employees have no fractures and they will only be working all day . You ought to benefit from their fractures and rest so that you can refrain from doing any harm to your walls

Another potential drawback of using a commercial painting business is that they can be very expensive. As there are no guarantees on their work, they will charge more than if you were to employ a painter all on your own. However, they might also not do the job as well as you would like. If you can’t afford their prices, you might want to locate another company to use.

The first benefit of having a commercial painting business is that you are going to save money. When you invest too much on hiring a painter to paint your walls, then you could end up losing money by going with a business which offers better deals. You may find exactly the exact same caliber of work for less money than you’d spend if you were to hire a professional painter all on your own.

Painter and Decorator

Painters and decorators apply decorative and protective finishes to interior and exterior walls, doors, windows and other surfaces of buildings.

Pay

Pay for painters and decorators varies depending on skills, experience and their employer.

Apprentice painters and decorators may start on the training minimum wage or the adult minimum wage, with their wages increasing as they gain experience and unit standards.

Unqualified or inexperienced painters and decorators usually start on about $20 and progress to $22 an hour.

Experienced painters and decorators can earn between $24 and $33 an hour.

What you will do

Painters and decorators may do some or all of the following:

work with customers on colour selection and finishes

calculate materials required for a job

erect scaffolding under five metres high (scaffolding over this height must be put up by a registered scaffolder)

fill holes, cracks and joins, and clean surfaces of dust and dirt

mix and match paint colours

cut and hang wallpaper, vinyl and backing paper

apply paint and decorative paint finishes such as glazing, graining, marbling and lettering.

Skills and knowledge

Painters and decorators need to have:

a good understanding of colour

knowledge of paints and wall coverings

skill in painting and decorating techniques

knowledge of health and safety precautions

Working conditions

Painters and decorators:

usually work regular business hours, but may be required to work longer hours or weekends. Commercial painters and decorators may work at night

work on homes and commercial buildings that are being built or renovated

may work in cold or dusty conditions, inside and outside and at heights.

A Fresh Look At A Few Of The Many Advantages Of Having Laminate Flooring Installed

What happens if laminate gets wet?

Can You Fix Water Damaged Laminate Flooring?

In most cases, yes, you can fix water damaged laminate flooring. Although there is a risk of swelling, you can save laminate flooring damaged by water. The key to saving your flooring is to begin cleanup quickly and dry boards thoroughly.

How Does Water Damage Laminate Flooring?

Water damages laminate flooring by soaking into the layers and causing them to fall apart. Laminate floorboards typically have four different layers:

  • Backing Layer – The backing layer is the bottom-most layer that touches the floor. It acts as both a moisture barrier and helps to balance the board on the floor below.
  • Base or Core Layer – On top of the backing is the base or core layer. This forms the main structure of each board. It’s usually made of a composite wood material called high-density fiberboard.
  • Design or Image Layer – Next is the design layer, which gives the floorboard it’s pattern or design. An image is printed on a thin resin layer and glued to the base layer.
  • Wear Layer – Finally, the board is coated in several layers of clear resin. This helps protect the board against scratches and everyday wear. It also serves as a moisture barrier to keep out water.
  • The base layer is most likely to have water damage. Depending on the type of backing material, it can also fall apart if there is enough water.

How Damage Occurs

If you’ve spilled some water on a laminate floor, there’s no need to panic. If it is patted dry with a cloth or sponge or wiped with a dry or well-wrung mop, you should be all set. However, if there is a spill and water is allowed to seep into the gaps between the laminate floor planks, damage can occur. This is because the wear layer will protect against water damage, but when water enters the floorboard gaps, the fiberboard core can get wet, causing it to swell.

If you’ve ever had a bookcase or table made of particle board and gotten it wet, you’ve noticed that the boards swell and bend. This is the same thing that can happen to your floorboards. If enough water gets into the seams, the core will soak up the moisture. If your laminate flooring is bubbling at the seams, it has water damage. And along with swelling, bending and cracking, a saturated laminate floorboard can develop mold.

How to save your laminate floors from water damage

Water on Top of Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring can get wet, but only the top. Laminate flooring’s sides, open seams, damaged areas, and bottoms can never get wet.

Mop up standing water quickly, as water can migrate into laminate’s seams. The edge areas of the laminate are more of a problem since edges are cut and exposed. If the water has reached edge areas or open seams, thoroughly extract the water with a wet-dry vacuum.​

If you install the laminate flooring in a full bathroom, you must take extreme precautions given by laminate manufacturers. Installation in guest or half bathrooms without precautions is acceptable because water is not prevalent as in rooms with bathing facilities. In these rooms, the main areas of concern would be around the toilet and below the sink.

Water Under Laminate Flooring

When the water reaches under laminate flooring, the water must be removed immediately. If a small amount of water has leaked toward the edges of the flooring, pull up any quarter-round (shoe molding) or baseboards around the perimeter. If the water is not pervasive, you may be able to extract it with a wet-dry vacuum.

Your best bet is to remove the affected floorboards. Floorboards that run parallel to the spill may be simple to remove (after the quarter-round and baseboards have been taken up) since the last course of parallel laminate boards should tilt upward. You can then progressively take up boards as far as you need.

Floorboards that run perpendicular to the spill, as well as the first course of boards, cannot be removed so easily. In this case, you need to remove all of the laminate floorboards.

Let The Repairs Begin

Before you begin any DIY repairs, you should have Water Mold Fire Restoration’s water damage experts inspect the situation. We will provide these inspections at no cost. The water has probably affected your subfloor, which needs to be dry. The last thing you want to do is lay down your new flooring on a subfloor that isn’t 100% dry because any excess moisture will then be absorbed into your new flooring, creating the same type of damage to the floor as you just had.

Here are some basic repair tips:

  • Stop The Leak – before you even think of dealing with your floors, make sure you locate and stop any leak.
  • Identify Damaged Areas of Flooring – determine where the damage starts and ends. Look for the previously mentioned types of damage.
  • Remove slightly more than you think is necessary – many times, the water has crept further than you think or can see. Keep removing boards until you can’t see any more moisture underneath them or also underneath the underlayment.
  • Board replacement – gently slide or tap the new boards into place. The hardest board to replace will be the last one.

Dealing With Laminate Floor Water Damage

Laminate flooring is made using sections that are interlocked. This makes it easy to perform repairs in the event of water damage. To perform repairs, start by drying the wet area. Then begin removing the damaged parts. Before installing new sections on the floor, make sure its surface is completely dry.

There are a number of reasons why kitchen and bathroom floors become flooded. The most common causes include a leaky dishwasher, refrigerator, washing machine, or another source of moisture penetration.

If you suspect water damage, you should first identify the source of the leak, then fix it immediately. You could start by clearing the water on your floor. Of course, without closing the leak first, this will not do much good.

Once the source of the leak has been dealt with, proceed to remove wet parts of your laminate floor. Give it time to dry out. To speed up the drying process, use a wet-vacuum or mop to absorb the water. The method you use may depend on the volume of water spilled and whatever tool is available to you. Ideally, a wet-vacuum should be used to clear a large amount of water.

When all the water clears, the floor will still be wet and will need to be left exposed for a while to dry. Put a fan on the floor to speed this process up. Sections of the floor that have been damaged may require removal using a crowbar or circular saw. To remove the damaged parts without damaging the areas on the surrounding floor, you can use a chisel and hammer. The part of the floor under the damaged section(s) is softer and should be scraped with a sharp edge such as a knife or a similar tool. When you replace sections of the floor use construction glue and make sure each piece fits perfectly before moving on to the next one.

Bathroom And Kitchen Remodeling Essential Aspects

Kitchen Remodeling

When remodeling your kitchen, the options are endless. Are you looking to completely renovate your space with brand new cabinets, countertops and appliances? Or do you want to do a quick refresh and update your current cabinetry and repaint your walls? Whether you want to change your space with all new materials or simply revive what you already have

design solutions to bring to life your dream kitchen:

Quick update with our exclusive Duramax™ Cabinet Refacing services

Remodel your space with brand-new cabinets

Under cabinet LED lighting or exposed lighting

Wood, laminate, and tile flooring

Unique backsplashes

Sinks and faucets

Crown molding

Kitchen islands

Pantries and more kitchen accessories

Kitchen Renovation Ideas

First things first—it is vital to establish a kitchen layout before attempting to remodel because it represents the core of a successful renovation. Whether you are starting from scratch and building a room from the ground up or you’re remodeling the construction of your existing design structure, there are benefits of both. If you are creating a brand new kitchen, you have the freedom to design your dream space without any pre-existing obstacles to impede your vision. On the other hand, if you’re remodeling the current construction of your kitchen, you will add value to your home and enhance the comfort and convenience

Old Oak Gets New Update

Once popular in the 70’s and 80’s, oak cabinets have become outdated and unwanted in many of today’s kitchen designs

White Is Timeless

We’re also seeing an age-old staple climb up in popularity – the traditional and timeless white kitchen. Whether it’s used in a contemporary kitchen with white shaker style doors, or in a more traditional style – white is a favorite of homeowners today.

How much to spend on your renovation

After seemingly countless months stuck at home this year, many of us are more attuned than ever to the best (and worst) bits of our living spaces. So if you’re considering a renovation – perhaps for more room, or a more modern look – how much should you spend? What should you focus on, and how can you avoid overcapitalising?

How to budget for a renovation

There’s no one-size-fits-all answer when it comes to how much to spend on a renovation. As for a long-term investment property, she suggests opting for hard wearing, good quality finishes. “Using cheap light fittings, plumbing fittings, all those things will come back and haunt you.”

“Some people, if they’re getting handy, might be able to pull out a kitchen themselves and put in an one,” he says. “They might be able to do that for $10,000 or $15,000, but to engage any professional you’d be looking at about $30,000.” People are often surprised at the price of bathroom renovations, which says start at about $20,000. “Those wet areas, they just cost.”

How to save money when renovating

For a partial renovation, or if you’re trying to save some bucks, there are other alternatives. “There’s a huge market for refacing kitchens because sometimes the carcasses of a kitchen are actually not so bad,” says

says new flooring – engineered floorboards start at about $20 a square metre – can dramatically improve the feel of a property. As can a fresh paint job, which is relatively cheap if you’re willing to put in the hard yards.

Adding a New Kitchen for a Newly Developed Home Addition

Cooking is an art that requires the artists to have all the right equipment and ample working space to get their culinary skills shining. A small kitchen can make even the simplest forms of cooking tasks challenging. If your home doesn’t have enough space to get you the kitchen space you need, you should probably consider adding.

A kitchen addition can be an exciting idea and a great reality to work on, but can also be stressful if you do not do proper planning. A lot of steps are involved in planning, designing, and building a kitchen addition. You need to determine the size, blending addition, and other aspects such as appliances, lighting, and room products. With that said, here is everything you need to know to get the perfect kitchen addition.

Determine the amount of space you need to add

Before making any calls, you will need to determine whether you have space to add in the first place. The kitchen is the central part of a home and creating thoughtfully designed space is a top priority. If you have enough space to work on, your next worry is finding an architecture that will design a new addition that will thoroughly blend your home and personal style. You can research as many layouts as possible before committing to a specific design.

Things to know when adding on a new kitchen

Just having enough space is not enough to give you the go-ahead with your kitchen addition project. For instance, you need to prepare your mind for faults, delays, and other project mishaps. There could be a thousand and one unforeseen issues that could crop up at any stage of the project. If it is a house you have already moved into, be prepared, especially finding a temporary cooking area for a specific duration.

Have a budget

Starting a building project without setting a budget can be costly. A new kitchen requires a smooth step by step planning, a detailed cost breakdown, a list of material and labour cost, and plenty of research. Every detail given by your designer will cost you some money; therefore, it would be prudent if you could come up with the budget together.

Kitchen Remodeling

Aside from your bathroom, the kitchen is where you and your family spend the most time in your home. You deserve a kitchen that is beautiful, functional and one that you’re proud of!

Your kitchen lies at the heart of your home. Renovating your kitchen space can dramatically improve your home’s overall appearance, purpose, and functionality.

Whether your kitchen needs a simple makeover, or a complete overhaul, the team at Renovations has you covered.

team of professionals have remodeled countless kitchens in hometown. know what’s functional, efficient, and what looks good.

Best DIY Kitchen Upgrades

Research shows that the kitchen is the number one place where upgrades will be noticed and will reward you – either in the sale of your home or in the ease and efficiency of your everyday life. Unfortunately, renovating an entire kitchen can be extremely costly. The good news is, there are many ways that you can upgrade pieces of your kitchen yourself

Paint the walls. Kitchens tend to have a relatively small area of visual wall space, so don’t be afraid to go bold!

Paint the cabinets. Although it requires a lot of time and effort, painting out your old and/or unsightly kitchen cabinets is a highly cost-effective way to make a huge impact.

Install a backsplash. No matter what it’s made of – tile, glass, stone, mirrors, wood – or how simple or complex, a backsplash is both integral to your kitchen’s style and highly useful in protecting your walls.

Install a corbel where backsplash ends and wall begins for a polished look.

What Is Vacuum Loading Services

The Many Services That Movers

Whether you are considering moving to a new home, or just a better location, this service can help you find a company that will do everything that you need and more.

This relocation service can take many things into consideration before deciding where to move. They will look at your belongings to see if they need to be transported with you. The company also can look at all of the moving trucks that are available, to see if you have space to use one of them, and the best way to move the items that are being moved.

Most of these companies will charge you a small fee for the service. However, there are also some that don’t charge anything, so make sure that you are aware of the charges that you will be charged for their service, before you choose them.

When you hire a company like this, you can rest assured that your things will be safely transferred from one location to another. This service is also a great help when you need to make sure that your belongings are protected from damage, theft, and more.

If you are wondering what types of services are offered when you are moving, you might consider what services they offer. Some of these services include helping you load all of your belongings into the moving trucks, and help you transport them to the new home. If you do not have the time to do it yourself, these services are great for you to use, as they can load and move all of your things on their behalf.

Things That Make Moving Less Miserable

In addition to using the recommended items below, found that sticking to a basic plan works well regardless of where you’re going or what you’re moving. First, sell or donate anything that’s a hassle (or overly expensive) to transport, such as furniture or large appliances. What you keep, pack with care—it takes time to find reliable and meaningful things. Moving is expensive and exhausting, and all used whatever free or cheap supplies work great for moving replaceable things, but protection for the things that matter is worth spending some cash. And if you can afford to do so, hiring movers is almost always worth the cost: Your back (and your friends) will thank you.

A wardrobe box makes it easy to pack all of the nice clothes hanging in my closet. Yes, I could just put a plastic garbage bag over half the hanging shirts at once and throw them in the back of a car, but if you have any clothing that you want to treat gently (that one thing you wear to every wedding, say, or a suit that actually fits), a wardrobe box protects it through a move so that it comes through unscathed. This Home Depot box is strongly constructed out of thick cardboard and features a metal hanging bar, so you can load it with a fair amount of weight. The box is bulky, but its well-positioned handles make it easier to carry solo, and you can put shoes or other items at the bottom if you need a bit of extra storage.

Consider crate rental

Cardboard boxes are most people’s go-to for a move, but I’ve found a different way to pack to avoid the endless folding, taping, and breaking down that comes with cardboard. The service delivered stacks of plastic bins to my door before I moved and picked them up when I was done. The bins are easy to open and close as well as to stack and roll on a dolly (which you can also rent from the company), and I was able to pick them up and move them around thanks to their sturdy handles

I don’t have to throw them out after every move, and they’re so durable that some of mine are more than 15 years old (that’s 10 moves between three states). And unlike cheap moving boxes, they work for storage too: Even in a dank basement or dirty garage, they keep out-of-season clothes, spare blankets, extra electronics, or anything else safe and dry like no cardboard box can.

Certain sizes have handles that make lifting easier, and the top flaps are designed to stay flat against the sides (and out of your way) while you’re packing. During my last move I found it particularly handy to order the boxes online

What items need to be packed into boxes for your move

So you’re moving to a new home and you don’t completely understand exactly which household articles need to be packed into boxes for your move. Generally, the answer is that everything needs to be packed into boxes, except for indoor and outdoor furniture which professional movers will protect with pads and furniture quilts

It is better to purchase uniform size boxes because movers stack boxes inside the truck (as shown below) and uniform box sizes allow your mover to create more uniform loads which better protect your shipment. A quick tip: do not use plastic tote or tub containers as explained

However, if the mover packs the box then the mover will be fully responsible for damage to the contents of the box which they packed (in accordance with the type of loss/damage liability which you have selected for your move). Movers call cartons which they pack “CP” cartons (which stands for “Carrier Packed”). You may also be interested in the fact that when a mover refers to “packing” the mover is referring to packing boxes, not the truck (movers pack boxes and they load the truck).

often find that customer’s pack boxes first without bothering to learn how to pack correctly and this is a mistake. Packing household articles into boxes is a bit of an art and we have many tutorials

guides which will help you learn the correct household packing methods and we hope that you will utilize the resources we have provided to help your complete your move safely and to your satisfaction.

HOW IT WORKS

you get a cost-effective way to transport your home or office items — and save a little money along the way. Plus, there’s no driving required.

You load.

Once the trailer is dropped, the clock starts ticking. Break a little sweat, or hire help — either way, the packing is left to you. You will have three days to load the trailer before we pick it up (most customers need only in one or two days)

Pack properly. We’ll show you how to pack, but you will need to correctly load boxes and brace your stuff using tie-down ratchet straps, bungee cords, or rope. You’ll also want to wedge softer items (pillows and other bedding in a large plastic bag) between boxes and furniture to fill in gaps and keep your belongings from shifting while the truck is in motion. Important note: You cannot file a claim for damages that are determined to be the result of poor packing.

Ramp up. The SureMove trailer sits off the ground, so we provide a 12-foot ramp you will use to move boxes, furniture, into the trailer.

Separate space. You may need to install a partition, which will be provided to you. This keeps your load separate from commercial freight, which will fill the rest of the trailer (if there’s room). There won’t be other people’s stuff on your trailer, though.

We move you.

Once you’ve loaded your belongings in the trailer’s nose (directly behind where the driver sits), the driver will return and haul your stuff to your new home or office. Need additional services, like storage, same-day pickup, or need the driver to stick around?

You unload.

When the rental trailer arrives at regional service center closest to your new location, bring the rental trailer to your new home or office. You then have three days to unload your freight before we come and pick up the empty rental trailer.

What You Can’t Put on a Moving Truck and Why

You’re in the midst of a big move, and you’ve got everything planned out. On moving day the truck arrives, but you soon find out you’ll have to find another way of transporting a few of your things. Whether you’re using professional moving services or packing up the moving truck yourself there are certain items that are never allowed. To avoid delays on moving day it’s important to become familiar with what can’t be loaded in advance.

Flammables

Any items that could possibly ignite are strictly prohibited, because of the danger they pose. Should a fire start in the back of the truck not only does it pose a threat for the people driving, but there’s also a good chance it would destroy everything inside. It’s in your best interest to make sure any and all flammables are separate from your other belongings.

EXPLOSIVES AND COMBUSTIBLES

Anything that’s combustible is off limits for the same reasons as flammables. These types of materials are extremely dangerous and should be handled with care. Even if it seems like they are safe, all it takes is an increase or drop in the temperature for them to become a safety hazard.

Firearms are particularly problematic since states each have their own regulations on how they can be handled and transported. Also, what’s legal in one state can be considered illegal in another. The Federal Peaceable Journey law allows owners of legal firearms to transport a weapon as long as the owner has a permit for the locations where they are moving to and from. The firearms must also be unloaded and inaccessible.

Perishable Items

Perishable items that are still in the fridge or open containers from the pantry aren’t dangerous, however, because they perish most movers don’t load them up on their trucks. This is definitely the case for a long distance move. Instead you’ll need to plan ahead with some coolers if you want to bring perishables along to your new home.

Top Reasons To Hire An Event Planner

What is a special event coordinator?

A special events coordinator’s job revolves around planning, organizing, and promoting events for their company or employer. These events may serve a diverse range of functions, such as a fundraiser, volunteer appreciation event, or company dinner. They often plan or organize in an office setting, although they may required to perform physical tasks such as posting flyers around the city or visiting prospective event locations. Coordinators may also use social media to help promote the event.

Coordinators typically have to work with a number of other employees with the company, including individuals helping to set up the event and other members of the marketing staff; they may also need to coordinate volunteers. They must also monitor an event budget and remain within that budget throughout the planning process. Special events coordinators must meet with potential clients or other departments in need of an event, gathering ideas and helping to plan. They must also keep supervisors apprised of their work, including their budgets.

Special events coordinators typically need at least three years of customer service and/or public relations experience, including at least one year at a supervisor level. The job also requires an understanding of basic computer software, financial recordkeeping, public relations, volunteer management, and organizational skills. They must also be able to work within deadlines, which may occasionally be tight.

What skills do you need?

Your negotiation skills should be rock solid to lock in the best possible prices with clients and vendors. Good communication skills are also a must. You can’t manage relationships with clients and vendors without them. Being detail oriented and deadline driven is also important.

And you have to have stamina, who logged plenty of night and weekend hours after putting in a full day at the office. You don’t always get to quit at quitting time in this line of work.

Who is an event coordinator’s boss?

An event coordinator may report to a director of events, but it largely depends on the way a company is structured. At some companies, an event coordinator assists or reports to an event manager. At others, responsibilities mirror those of event managers. 

Differences Between Event Planning and Coordinating

There are several loosely-defined terms in the event industry. That is, words that can be interpreted in different ways. The word “event” by itself could mean anything from a birthday party to a benefit concert. This use of different terms can lead to confusion and misunderstandings, specifically around job titles. One of the biggest areas of confusion concerns event planners vs. event coordinators.

Event Planners vs. Event Coordinators

Outside the industry, many people do not understand the difference between an event planner and an event coordinator. Generally speaking, the planner makes critical decisions regarding what, when, who, and how. An event coordinator, on the other hand, is responsible for making sure all the details are executed and that each vendor shows up on time and performs appropriately.

Responsibilities of an Event Coordinator

An event coordinator does not get involved with the design of the event, itself. Instead, they are in charge of managing the individual components to ensure the event goes smoothly.

Once the planner has determined the vision for the event, the coordinator assists the planner in making that a reality. They may look at vendors, organize delivery dates, and handle logistical tasks.

Larger organizations may have two coordinators for every planner, while smaller operations might only have one coordinator who serves the needs of all executive decision-makers. Either way, there is typically a direct line of supervision over the coordinator position. That doesn’t mean event coordinators have it easy. Most of them have the difficult task of organizing everything on-site with only a few hours before the event begins. This, of course, is when most problems occur, which is why a good coordinator is focused, organized, and resourceful.

This is a great position for those looking to start a career in event planning. Working as a coordinator gives you a strong foundation to move on to an event planner role later in your career. A strong coordinator is worth their weight in gold to any planner, and job security (if you’re good at your job) is virtually guaranteed.

To break into a career in event coordination, getting an internship or volunteering with a non-profit to help them plan their fundraising events can be advantageous. You’ll get hands-on experience in coordinating a real event and build your professional network at the same time.

Responsibilities of an Event Planner

An event planner works directly with the client to determine the customer’s vision, needs, and budget. For example, if it’s a wedding, the event planner may discuss the couple’s intended tone, the level of formality, and the size of the guest list.

From there, the event planner designs an event to wow the client. They will choose a venue and type of entertainment, then work with the client to determine a menu. They focus on the big-picture items that make an event memorable.

Becoming an event planner takes years of experience. A planner carries a lot of responsibility ensuring the client is happy and designing an event that fits the customer’s needs and expectations.

Before becoming a planner, several years of working as an event coordinator is often necessary. It’s an important stepping stone to a career in events.